Up to 95% of acne patients develop some degree of scarring, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. That means almost everyone who's dealt with acne is left with something—pitted marks, uneven texture, dark spots that foundation can't fully mask. You got the breakouts under control, but the skin doesn't look like it did before.
The good news: acne scars are treatable. Not overnight, and rarely with a single treatment, but meaningfully and measurably treatable. At Millennium Skin and Laser in Clifton, NJ, we offer multiple approaches depending on your scar type, skin tone, and budget. Here's an honest breakdown of what works, what doesn't, and what to expect.
Types of acne scars (and why classification matters)
The first thing Dr. Patel does during a scar consultation is examine your skin under magnification and classify your scars. This step matters because different scar types respond to different treatments. We use a system based on the Goodman and Baron qualitative scarring grading system, which classifies scars by shape, depth, and texture.
Atrophic scars (depressed/indented)
These are the most common acne scars, caused by loss of collagen during the healing process.
Ice pick scars
- Deep, narrow, V-shaped pits that extend into the dermis
- Look like the skin was punctured with a sharp instrument
- Most difficult to treat because of their depth and narrow opening; often require combination approaches
Boxcar scars
- Broad, rectangular depressions with sharply defined vertical edges
- Similar appearance to chickenpox scars
- Respond well to resurfacing treatments, especially when shallow (under 0.5mm)
Rolling scars
- Wave-like, undulating depressions with no sharp edges
- Caused by fibrous bands anchoring the skin surface to deeper tissue
- Respond to treatments that break up the tethering scar tissue underneath
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Technically not scars, but the dark or red spots left behind after acne heals. Very common in darker skin tones. PIH usually fades on its own, but it can take 6-18 months without treatment.
Hypertrophic and keloid scars
Raised scars caused by excess collagen production. More common on the chest, shoulders, and jawline, and in certain skin types. These require a different approach than depressed scars—often corticosteroid injections or silicone sheeting.
Treatment options compared
Over-the-counter products
What's available: Retinol, vitamin C serums, niacinamide, AHAs/BHAs, silicone scar sheets
Realistic expectations: May help with mild discoloration and surface texture. Won't significantly improve depressed or raised scars.
Best for: PIH, prevention, maintenance after professional treatment
Timeline: 3-6+ months of consistent daily use
Our take: Reasonable for maintenance, but OTC products won't fix indented scarring.
Prescription retinoids (tretinoin)
How it works: Increases epidermal cell turnover and stimulates collagen synthesis over months of use
Realistic expectations: Improves texture and mild scarring. Fades PIH faster. Won't fix deep scars.
Best for: Mild scarring, texture issues, PIH, as part of a broader plan
Timeline: 6-12 months for noticeable improvement
Our take: We prescribe this alongside professional treatments. Tretinoin primes the skin for better results from microneedling and laser.
Chemical peels
How it works: Acid solution removes outer skin layers, triggering new cell growth and collagen production
Types:
- Light peels (glycolic, salicylic) — minimal downtime, mild improvement
- Medium peels (TCA 15-35%) — 3-5 days of peeling, better results for shallow scars
- Deep peels (phenol) — significant downtime, dramatic results but higher risk
Best for: Shallow boxcar scars, rolling scars, PIH, overall texture improvement
Not ideal for: Deep ice pick scars, or darker skin tones with deeper peels (higher PIH risk)
Timeline: Series of 4-6 treatments
Our approach: We offer glycolic and TCA peels, often in combination protocols. For darker skin, we use lighter concentrations and shorter contact times. Learn more in our guide to chemical peels.
Microneedling
How it works: Fine needles (0.5-2.5mm) create thousands of controlled micro-channels, triggering a wound-healing cascade that produces new collagen. Fabbrocini et al. (2010) showed 1-2 grade improvement on the Goodman and Baron scale after just two sessions for atrophic scars. Can be combined with PRP (platelet-rich plasma) for accelerated results.
Best for: Rolling scars, shallow boxcar scars, overall texture, all skin types including Fitzpatrick IV-VI
Not ideal for: Very deep ice pick scars as a standalone treatment
Downtime: 1-3 days of redness, similar to a mild sunburn
Timeline: 3-6 treatments, spaced 4-6 weeks apart
Our approach: We offer microneedling alone or with PRP (growth factors from your own blood that speed collagen production). Read our full breakdown of PRP microneedling. Often our first recommendation for patients with darker skin.
Laser resurfacing
How it works: Laser energy either removes damaged skin layers (ablative) or heats deeper layers to trigger collagen remodeling (non-ablative)
Types:
Ablative lasers (CO2, Erbium) — Remove skin tissue. More dramatic single-session results but 1-2 weeks of serious downtime. Higher risk for darker skin types.
Non-ablative lasers (like our Aerolase Neo Elite) — Heat deeper layers without removing surface skin. Less downtime, safer for all skin types, requires more sessions.
Fractional lasers — Treat a fraction of the skin at a time, leaving islands of untreated tissue for faster healing.
Best for: Boxcar scars, rolling scars, texture, discoloration
Timeline: 3-6 sessions for non-ablative; 1-3 sessions for ablative
Our approach: We use the Aerolase Neo Elite (non-ablative Nd:YAG), safe for all skin types with no downtime. It heats the dermis to stimulate collagen production over the following weeks. Learn more about how laser acne treatment works. For patients wanting ablative treatment, we can refer to a dermatologist.
Considering treatment? Call (973) 938-4230 to schedule a free scar assessment. Dr. Patel will classify your scars, evaluate your skin type, and recommend the most effective approach for your situation.
Dermal fillers
How it works: Injectable hyaluronic acid filler (like Juvederm or Restylane) is placed beneath individual scars to lift them flush with the surrounding skin
Best for: Deep boxcar scars, rolling scars, isolated depressed scars
Not ideal for: Ice pick scars (too narrow for a needle), widespread scarring (cost adds up quickly)
Duration: 6-18 months depending on filler type and placement
Our take: Useful for select deep scars, but not practical as the only treatment for extensive scarring. Works well when combined with laser or microneedling for the surrounding texture.
Subcision
How it works: A needle is inserted horizontally under the scar to physically cut the fibrous bands pulling the skin down
Best for: Rolling scars, tethered scars that flatten when you stretch the skin
Often combined with: Fillers (to hold the released scar up), microneedling, or laser
Our approach: We refer to dermatologists for subcision when appropriate. It pairs well with our in-office treatments.
TCA Cross
How it works: High-concentration TCA (70-100%) is applied with a toothpick directly into individual ice pick scars, causing controlled chemical destruction and tissue rebuilding from the bottom up
Best for: Ice pick scars specifically—it's one of the few treatments that works well on these
Timeline: 3-6 sessions, 4-6 weeks apart
Our approach: Available for appropriate candidates. We assess depth and skin type before recommending.
What we recommend for each scar type
| Scar Type | First-Line Treatment | Add-On Options |
|---|---|---|
| Ice Pick | TCA Cross | Microneedling, Laser |
| Boxcar (shallow) | Laser or Microneedling | Chemical Peels |
| Boxcar (deep) | Filler + Laser | Subcision |
| Rolling | Microneedling + PRP | Subcision, Laser |
| PIH | Topicals + Peels | Laser (conservative settings) |
Why combination treatment works better
Rullan et al. published a 2021 review showing that combination protocols consistently outperform single-modality treatment for acne scars. The reason is straightforward: different treatments target different parts of the problem. Microneedling breaks up superficial scar tissue and stimulates collagen. Laser heats deeper tissue for remodeling. Fillers physically raise depressed scars. Chemical peels smooth the surface.
Example protocol for moderate scarring:
- Start with prescription retinoid for 4-8 weeks to prime the skin
- Series of 3-4 microneedling + PRP sessions (every 4-6 weeks)
- Aerolase laser sessions between microneedling appointments
- Maintain with tretinoin and occasional peels
This addresses the scar at multiple levels and produces better results than any single treatment alone.
What to expect month by month
Collagen remodeling happens in phases. Here's a realistic timeline for a combination treatment plan:
Weeks 1-4 (after first treatment): Skin may look slightly worse before it looks better. Redness fades within days, but the collagen remodeling process is just beginning. You won't see visible scar improvement yet.
Months 1-2: Subtle changes. Texture feels smoother, shallow scars begin to soften, PIH starts to lighten. This is when patients who quit early miss out.
Months 3-4: Visible improvement. Boxcar and rolling scars look noticeably shallower. Skin tone is more even.
Months 5-8: Continued improvement as collagen builds. Results compound with each session.
Months 9-12: Near-final results. Collagen remodeling can continue for up to 12 months after your last treatment. This is when we take comparison photos.
What results can you actually expect?
Let's be direct about expectations:
- 50-75% improvement is realistic for most patients with moderate scarring
- Complete elimination of scars is rarely achievable, especially for deep ice pick scars
- Multiple treatments are always needed—there's no one-and-done solution
- Maintenance with retinoids and sunscreen helps preserve results long-term
Frequently asked questions
How much does acne scar treatment cost in NJ?
Costs vary by treatment:
- Chemical peels: $150-300/session
- Microneedling: $300-600/session
- Laser: $300-800/session
- PRP add-on: $300-500
Most patients need multiple sessions. We provide detailed pricing during consultation and offer payment plans.
How long until I see results?
Expect initial improvement at 4-6 weeks, with continued improvement over 3-6 months. Full results from a complete series may take 9-12 months.
Can acne scars be treated if I still have active acne?
We recommend controlling active acne first. Treating scars while new ones are forming is counterproductive. We can help with both—active acne treatment first, then scar treatment once breakouts are under control.
Are treatments painful?
Discomfort varies. Microneedling and laser feel like tiny pricks and warmth. We apply numbing cream 30 minutes before treatment when needed. Most patients tolerate sessions well.
Is treatment safe for dark skin?
Yes, with the right approach. Microneedling is safe for all skin types. Our Aerolase Neo Elite laser is specifically designed to work on Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin without causing hyperpigmentation.
Resources
- American Academy of Dermatology - Acne Scars
- DermNet NZ - Acne Scarring
- NIH - Acne Scar Treatment Review
Book your free scar assessment
Every scar treatment plan starts with understanding exactly what you're working with. During your free consultation, Dr. Patel will examine your scars under magnification, classify them by type and depth, assess your skin tone, and map out a realistic treatment timeline with expected costs.
Call (973) 938-4230 or book online. Located at 1051 Bloomfield Ave, Suite #174, Clifton, NJ 07012.